Day 365 : Gorl

 

Day 365 : Gorl

Today's button has a name that reflects the technique used. German button makers call this "Gorl" and it seems to have no translation. They are currently very popular in one of the German button making groups I am in, and there have been some wonderful examples. 

The technique involves creating a gimp thread 'on the fly', in other words, as the pattern is worked. There are a few different ways to do this, and I actually think it depends more on the design which method is used, rather then there being a right or wrong way, if that makes sense. It is a technique illustrated in Diderot (the button designs, not the actual process), but it is so very time consuming that I don't think many survive - perhaps because there weren't that many made! I have seen goldwork ones on museum pieces, and I have just received a really special button for Christmas that I am fairly certain uses this technique (I need more study time!) but they aren't really seen too often.

I created a couple in my 2016 challenge, but this is probably the finest thread I've used to date. I'll add a link to the others below.

Well, we are about to go into Tier 4 lockdown for our area, and the clutch failed in the car today. One of those days! 

Day 52 -2016 / Day 60 - 2016

Day 316 : '73

 

Day 316 : '73

Today's button is inspired by some vintage buttons in my collection. It's quite close, but not the same - and certainly not in colours - the originals are black with a bit of colour. I suspect the originals are pre WWII, judging from the card they are on.

This one though, made me think of the 1970s. The colours? the circle? I don't know, but it makes me happy either way. I can see this on a cushion on a draylon sofa!

Hope you are all keeping well xx

Day 314 : Coil

 

Day 314 : Coil

This button is inspired by a vintage button in my collection. This isn't made in the same way, or even with the same materials, but the resemblance is there. I quite like this, because it could be for a bride's cape as it is now, all white and shiny, but then I imagined it worked with linen or even hemp - and wouldn't that look cool on a striped beach bag?

I hope everyone is doing ok. There isn't a lot of evidence of lockdown near us I'm afraid. We go into work to pack orders and then scurry away (for instance we won't walk Toby when at work as it isn't our local area) and yet traffic is just as bad, the post office had queues, and there seem to be people everywhere. And cases in our area are steadily on the increase. IDK.

Anyway, stay well everyone!

Day 311 : Duchess

 

Day 311 : Duchess

This one did not want to behave at all. I really had to fight with it and although I like how it turned out, it isn't quite what was in my head. 

And how many times have I said that this year? :) Good job I have a challenge to maintain, otherwise I might have thrown it out. 

I hope lockdown isn't too troublesome for you all. I must admit, there were enough people about when we did our post run with orders that it didn't feel like lockdown... 

Stay safe all, and have a good weekend. 

Day 299 : Direction

 

Day 299 : Direction

Here's a different one today. Not even sure where it came from - it just wanted to be made. I quite like it though. It's very shiny!

So, my little Viking fosterlings have sailed away :( Gosh I miss them! But, they are setting in so well that I know this was destiny. It was just meant to happen the way that it has happened. See what I mean? -

https://www.barbaragrayblog.com/2020/10/the-vikings-have-landed/

I do like a happy ending. It's what we need in these uncertain times isn't it?

Size: 21mm / 13⁄16" / 34L

Day 298 : Ice

 

Day 298 : Ice

Posting a little late today - and a rather simple button. Not soutache though - instead a machine made braid and cord. Because they are again viscose rayon, the light reflects in the same interesting ways. These are both from my stash - leftovers from a commission a few years ago. 

Todays has been about spending time with kittens - and some housework! The kittens are really coming out of themselves now and beating each other up all of the time - they probably need more space. Which they absolutely will have from tomorrow. They are going to be so spoilt. I shall miss them terribly though. :(

Size: 27mm / 1 1⁄16" /42L

Day 297 : Audrey

 

Day 297 : Audrey

Yes, you guessed it! I really quite like this. I can see it on an A-line swing coat. Bit of a pain to put together, but worth it.

So, tomorrow is my last day with my Viking fosterlings, and I haven't yet put a picture up! That's not good. Meet Eric & Ragnar:

Gosh, I'm going to miss them!

And especially for CinC -

Have a lovely weekend all!

Size: 25mm / 1" / 40L

Day 296 : Rosalie

 

Day 296 : Rosalie

Yes, another soutache button! That happens - I start experimenting and it makes me think of other things to try. I would like to say I won't do another one - but I got another idea yesterday so... 

Only a few more days with my Viking fosterlings :( Had their check-up today, poor things have worms likely passed on with their mum's milk. No wonder they have eaten so much! I did wonder. The little one is very angry with me, he did not like me in my face mask and started his silent hissing again. And he's still mad at me. 

Size: 26mm / 1" / 40L

275 : Burton

 

Day 275 : Burton

Today's button is one using my odd wrapping technique - with the addition of some doodling! I've named it Burton, as if I were ever to make buttons for another Tim Burton film*, I'd offer this one! I can imagine one of his characters wearing an 18th century frock coat with these...

Yes, I'm a bit organised. I'm not really, but posting now instead of after the shows is really the smarter option!

Have a lovely day everyone.

Size: 30mm / 1 1⁄4" / 48L

* I made literally 100s of Dorsets for Sweeney Todd :)

Day 261 : Reticolato

 

Day 261 : Reticolato

Another doodle button - starting with really quite a straight forward base. It is interesting how these develop, something very plain can turn into something really neat. If you are making buttons - try a deaths head button - maybe even with two colours - and then weave in and out over it. See what designs you come up with!

Here's my video for making a deaths head if you haven't seen it -

Size:30mm / 1 3⁄16" / 48L 

Day 216 : Cake

Day 216 : Cake

What can I say, this just made me think of a fancy cake. Especially from the side, which is really this button's best angle. So I have added another image below.

Another knot, a 9 lead 8 bight turks head with waxed cotton cord, doubled, but only in the centre section, and then decorated with No 12 cotton perle thread. And over a wooden bead mould, one from my stash.

Annnnd... I've just deleted accidentally every picture from my phone's main gallery... Wouldn't be so bad, but I actually took time at the weekend to clear everything, meaning what was there, I really wanted to keep. Just sums up my Monday. Long night ahead.

Size: 15mm / just over 1⁄2" / 24L

Day 211 : Hurst Cross

Day 211 : Hurst Cross

Today's button is based on an historical button. The original buttons are on a banyan dated to the 1730s - but it was remade in the late 19th century. Having seen really close up images of the buttons, it really does appear as though the buttons are original to the garment but the buttons are, I suspect, part of the remake. Something about them really speaks Victorian. 

Saying that - everything about the technique is ok for the 18th century, including the weaving. So, it is difficult. If a garment has been reworked, how easy is it to tell what has been added when the items are still handmade, use the correct materials, and use techniques known? Could the items be a special early example, or dismissed as an addition? Difficult. 

The name is for my friend Neal Hurst at Colonial Williamsburg, who first alerted me to the buttons. He's very good like that and has shared details of other buttons with me. 

I've used Au ver a Soie Soie Gobelins for the foundation, and Soie Perlee for the weave. The mould is one of the ones we are still waiting on from India....

Size : 21mm / 7⁄8" / 34L

Day 204: Marburg

Day 204 : Marburg

This button is based on a button found on the traditional costume (before 1900) of the German district of Marbury-Biedenkopf. I've added a few extra rows and the crossed stitch at the centre (I felt my chosen background colour needed to be broken up a little), but essentially, this is the same button.

Instructions for the button can be found in the German language book "Posamentenknopfe", by some of my wonderful button making friends (the world is a much smaller place when you share button making!

I've used cotton perle size 12 for this.

Size: 26mm / just over 1" / 42L

Day 202 : Courage

Day 202 : Courage

Today's button just makes me think of the Cowardly Lion from the Wizard of Oz - after they arrived at the Emerald City and his mane got a make-over! So there's the reason behind the name. :)

The centre is a flat thread woven piece, stuffed to make a ball. I am experimenting with reproducing something I've seen on antique buttons, and I think I have come up with a viable technique. It's actually the back I was looking to replicate, which of course you can't see.

The surround is a traditional passementerie loop chenille or uncut chenille stem. Most often seen today on tassels to hide the join between the neck and skirt (known as a ruff), it can also be seen on decorative buttons. It is also one of the techniques used to create hairwork flowers during the 19th century. It's all inter-related you see...

Size : 22mm / 7⁄8" / 36L

Day 178 : Shine

Day 178 : Shine .

Today's button uses a really old, traditional technique with some modern thread. I'm afraid the photograph doesn't do the thread justice - it is one of the DMC light effects (I am currently working on a kit using this), and it has all sorts of beautiful colours running through it. It really is best in person.

I've just done one of these buttons with very expensive gilt thread as a sample for a large group I will be doing as a commission. It will eventually end up as uniform decorations being made by Hawthorne & Heaney embroidery specialists in London. As I said, they are very traditional, these days you tend to find them on tassels most often. 

Size: 10mm / 9⁄16" / 22L

Day 157 : Meadow

Day 157 : Meadow

Well, I did say to myself at the start of this that I would not name according to the colours that I use, as a design could be worked in any colour. But, this did make me think of a meadow, so I guess I can break my own rules.

This is a very simple button really - it is made of a double spun cord. Basically I made two different 3 strand cords, and then spun those two together to make one. That one has then been glued to a button mould in a spiral. The mould is from my stash, not actually a mould but a wood plug without a hole. 

The threads are all fine silk, again from my stash. Cords like this can be made with sewing threads - machine rayon works really well too, but so does cotton. It's worth having a play.  

Size : 25mm / 1" / 40L

Day 145 : Eliot

Day 145 : Eliot

Today's button is back to a traditional passementerie button. I am working on a set that will adorn a gown based on this one from 1842 in the Met. It will be made by Prior Attire here in the UK. It is interesting that the original buttons have the second, lighter colour at the centre, something that isn't seem very often in comparison to 'regular' grappe buttons. 

For the right look, I have spun the filament silk threads for the grappe work - the colours that I needed just weren't available in the correct weight. It is about the same as Soie Perlee. Knowing how to twist up your own threads really comes in useful when doing work like this. The base is a satin wrap of filament silk over a No 14 tagua nut mould. To be really authentic it should have been wood, but we did have these made to be used for just this sort of button!

The set will also also include some rather fancy little tassels and cords... 

And the name? Well, this style always makes me think of George Eliot. 

Size: 20mm / 13⁄16" / 32L

Day 118 : Macaroni

Day 118 : Macaroni

Today's button is based on my latest acquisition - which arrived at the weekend. I was so pleased with it I had to try a version! I am quite sure, from the size and materials, that the original is 18th century, and I can imagine a macaroni wearing it, hence the name. The original uses pink instead of purple and blue instead of the green-blue, but I think the colours are still a good choice.

I've used a button mould prototype that will, eventually, be available with any luck. Right before lockdown, our order of a lot of different button moulds had just been completed - in India. And India went into lockdown. In actual fact, the original has such a flat button mould that I reckon a No 3 mould would have been fine :)

I've used Au ver a Soie Silks - Gobelins for the ground - it should have been Ovale, but I didn't have any at the house - and Perlee for the others. Which is bang on when comparing to the original. :)

Size : 27mm / 1" / 44L

Day 110 : Woven Ball

Day 110 : Woven Ball

Perhaps not the most exciting name for today's button, but it is what it is. This is a simpler version of a 17th century button and yes, another one to go into the book that I am working on. There are actually many different ways to create a basket weave effect, and a technique that one person finds difficult, another may find much easier, so I hope to include a few variations.

This one has used a perle cotton No 8 and the centre is a No 24 bead.

Size: 9mm / 3⁄8" / 16L

Day 108 : Nodulous

Day 108 : Nodulous

I like this button! It's a sort of knobby pompom, and has its roots in the Italian linen tassel techniques of the 16th and 17th centuries. I've then stitched the knots to a simple ring button. What you can't see is that the button is 8mm high.  I do like textiles with texture - this one wants to be touched!

I've used No 101 ring and perle cotton No 12. 

Size: 12mm / 1⁄2" / 20L